Travel For us, the Rock’s most surprising attraction was the semi-wild troop of Barbary Apes (actually, tailless macaques) that scamper around the nature reserve and the Cable Car Top andMiddle Stations. Gibraltar is the only place in Europe where monkeys live in their natural state. More than 200 of the tiny simians nonchalantly perched on rocks and railings, groomed their youngsters and snoozed on viewing scopes. Their population wasn’t always so high. In 1942, when their numbers dwindled to only seven, Churchill ordered additional primates from their original North African homelands. Legend claims that if the playful monkeys ever leave the Rock, their demise will spell the end of British rule. The cinnamon-coloured troublemakers created havoc by attempting to steal food from purses and bags carried by unsuspecting tourists. Two nimble-fingered pranksters hopped on our backpacks and quickly unzipped them. Finding only camera equipment, they quickly left and snatched a bag of chips and a can of cola from nearby visitors. A management team feeds the macaques healthy meals of oranges, potatoes, lettuce and carrots. Fines of £500 and warning signs discourage visitors from feeding the Barbary Apes. Other signs describe monkey behaviours, such as grooming and submissive gestures, and warn visitors not to touch the cuddly looking critters because they can bite. Competing with the macaques for our attention were the splendid views from the terraces around the Cable Car Top Station. It took only six minutes to ride the gondola from the base to the 412-metre-high platform, a former SecondWorldWar gun emplacement. We felt as if we were on top of the world. From the terraces, we looked out over two continents, three countries and the merging of two great bodies of water. It was easy to imagine how would-be invaders felt when they gazed up at this towering obstacle rearing up above them. The Rock’s east face is almost as precipitous as its north face, but there’s room for a road, three narrow beaches and The Caleta Hotel at the bottom. The town has tenaciously crept up the craggy west side and extended into the bay, thanks to land reclamation. Since 1841, Trinity Lighthouse has dominated Europa Point to the south. We were surprised to see the towering white minaret of a mosque behind the lighthouse. It is the southernmost mosque in continental Europe. The £5-million gift from the late King of Saudi Arabia was built in 1997 for Gibraltar’s Muslim population, who primarily originate from nearby Morocco. Monkey shenanigans Panoramic views Macaque sits on railing at the Cable Car Top Station Couple view the 426-metre peak of the Rock from a Cable Car Top Station terrace View from a terrace of the road, two beaches and The Caleta Hotel at the base of the Rock’s east face 18 | www.snowbirds.org
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