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Travel Inside the walled city and its gates, we discovered a maze of narrow lanes, steep passageways and elegant stucco buildings, many with shutters and wrought iron balconies. The ambiance, however, was undoubtedly British. As we meandered along pretty lanes, we spotted fire engine-red telephone booths and Royal Mail boxes, bobbies with helmets, pubs with alfresco dining and several stores selling VAT (value-added tax)-free fragrances, liquor, watches and British specialties. At the north end of Main Street, the mostly pedestrianized long central avenue, we found Casemates Square with the Gibraltar Crystal factory where glass-blowers work, outdoor cafés and bars such as the Lord Nelson, which features live music on Thursday and Friday nights. We were surprised to learn that one of Gibraltar’s most popular souvenirs is Nelson’s Blood rum. Why such a ghastly name? In 1805, after Admiral Nelson died in the Battle of Trafalgar, crewmembers brought his body ashore and packed it into a keg of rum for shipment to England for burial. Twomen who died from wounds after the battle are buried in Trafalgar Cemetery just past Referendum Gate on the south end of Main Street. Nelson’s Blood Casemates Square viewed through Grand Casemates Gates The Lord Nelson bar features pub grub and live music Statue of Admiral Nelson at South Bastion Friendly bobbies wear helmets 20 | www.snowbirds.org

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