In contrast to the glamourous nightlife at Copacabana Palace, a night at Sanctuary Chief’s Camp is spine-tingling. It’s not unusual for African wildlife to visit the Botswana safari camp after dark. Although we were safely ensconced inside our bungalow, we woke up with pounding hearts to roars, grunts, hisses and screeches penetrating the canvas walls. We later learned that lions had killed a zebra behind the camp, enticing a host of scavengers including hyenas and vultures. The next morning, we relaxed on our deck chairs, overlooking grazing antelope on the now peaceful savannah. Because predators are most active at dawn and dusk, we waited until sunset to board our safari vehicle. Our driver and guide soon spotted a herd of Cape buffalo making dusty tracks to a watering hole. Two lionesses – their amber eyes fixed on an aged straggler – ignored us. A parade of trumpeting elephants led by a massive matriarch diverted our attention. We trailed them to a pond, where they gleefully rolled in the water with all the finesse of boulders. Nearby, a flock of white-backed vultures devoured a young giraffe carcass. Its mother looked on from a distance, as if she were in mourning. Hot and dusty from the game drive, we returned to Chief’s Camp where staff welcomed us with songs, cool, wet towels and frosty glasses of orange juice. The beating of an African drum announced dinner. We enjoyed glasses of Cabernet Sauvignon and grilled appetizers around the fire, under a canopy of stars. Moving inside, we dined on beef filet, vegetables and mocha cheesecake, served on white linen by candlelight. It could’ve been an elegant meal in a Toronto restaurant – at least until the lions roared. All conversation stopped. Yes, our safari camp was no ordinary hotel. Threatening screeches sanctuaryretreats.com/botswana-camps-chiefs Barb & Ron Kroll publish the trip-planning website www.KrollTravel.com 18 | www.snowbirds.org Travel
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