IN THIS ISSUE SURPRISING SARAWAK THE GREAT LOCOMOTIVE CHASE UTAH’S MIGHTY 5 PARKS Travel ATRIAL FIBRILLATION Health INVESTING FOR THE FUTURE Finance OFFICIAL NEWS MAGAZINE OF THE CANADIAN SNOWBIRD ASSOCIATION | FALL 2024 | ISSUE 132 Publication mail agreement no: 40063603
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Editor’s Message CSANews© is published four times a year and is Copyright Fall 2024 by Medipac International Communications Inc., 180 Lesmill Road, Toronto, Ontario M3B 2T5. 416.441.7000. Subscription Price: $9.95 Canada; $20.00 U.S. and foreign. Single copy: $3.95. Prices include tax. Published by Medipac International Communications Inc. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and are not necessarily those of the CSA, Medipac International Communications Inc. or its affiliates, their Directors, Officers, or other employees or agents. Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement No: 40063603. ISSN No: 1195-2393 Barb & Ron Kroll Dr. Robert MacMillan Shari McIntyre David McPherson Rex Vogel Robert Wiersema Judith Adam Gabrielle Bauer Donna Carter Michael Coren Jennifer Cox James Dolan Garry McDonald Johanne Blain James Carl Simpson Ted Popel Marjorie Heisler Karen Huestis Wendy Caban Ronald Brown Debra Ann MacLean Kimberley Tetzlaff Michael MacKenzie Wallace Weylie President First Vice-President Second Vice-President Treasurer Secretary Past-President Director Director Director Director Executive Director Legal Counsel CSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS Editor CSA Editor President Art Director Director of Operations Marketing Coordinator Marketing & Events Specialist J. Ross Quigley Garry McDonald Christopher Davidge Peter Prusa Paula McGovern Stefanye Zee Fran Castricone FALL 2024 | ISSUE 132 CONTRIBUTING EDITORS We acknowledge the support of the Government of Canada. Merv Magus Cover photo: iStock.com/SolStock Illustrator The great snowbird migration is coming, and soon. Is your passport up to date and valid well beyond your return date? Have you had your car, truck or RV serviced and ready? Are your air tickets booked, if you are flying away to paradise. Have you made arrangements to have money while you are away? The Snowbird Currency Exchange Program is an easy way to do this, if you have a U.S. bank account. Do you have a sufficient supply of your prescription medications to last for your full trip and a week or two beyond, just in case? Delays do happen and you should be ready. Is your property ready for your arrival? Do you remember the codes to the doors, your safe and any other codes which you may need? Have you sent yourself an email that can be opened on your arrival containing all of that necessary information? I send stock information and important phone numbers, passwords to many accounts and the codes which we need – there are quite a few. Now, what do I pack? I try to be self-sufficient both here and at our destination, so I normally pack very little. My better half tends to take quite a bit more. I tell her that we can just buy anything we need or forget down there (we go to Florida), but she insists that she can just use the things she already has and we will save money. I should mention here that she hates shopping. Hallelujah! (The original version by Leonard Cohen is by far the best, in my opinion.) Don’t forget your keys and have a wonderful winter… no matter where you are. P.S.: And please remember to book your Medipac Travel Insurance. Sincerely, J. Ross Quigley Editor CSANews | FALL 2024 | 3
Table of Contents FALL 2024 | ISSUE 132 OFFICIAL NEWS MAGAZINE OF THE CANADIAN SNOWBIRD ASSOCIATION The Great Locomotive Chase Discover the story of why two men were given Medals of Honor on July 3, 2024 for an event that took place more than 150 years ago. By Dave Hunter Surprising Sarawak Find out what peppercorns, a river journey and headhunters have in common. by Barb & Ron Kroll Features 20 14 24 Exploring Utah’s Mighty 5 How to see Utah’s Mighty 5 national parks on an epic road trip. by Rex Vogel Travel RV Lifestyle 4 | www.snowbirds.org
Table of Contents 39 Book Review by Robert Wiersema 40 Golf by David McPherson 42 CSA Online by James Dolan 44 Gardening by Judith Adam 46 Food & Drink by Shari McIntyre 48 Fun & Games 49 Grins & Giggles 50 CSA Application 51 CSA Benefits 52 Snowbird Events 54 Fast Facts 3 Editor’s Message 6 Bird Talk 8 Snowbird Alert 10 President’s Message 11 Government Relations Report 12 Insurance by J. Ross Quigley 13 Opinion by Michael Coren 32 Estate Planning by Donna Carter 36 Health Pulse 37 Longevity by Jennifer Cox 38 Fitness by Jennifer Cox 34 28 Atrial Fibrillation What is it, how do you treat it and do you need a personal-use ECG? by Dr. Robert MacMillan Finance Investing for the Future Ten big-picture trends and ideas that will shape the markets (and the world) in the years to come. by James Dolan Health Departments CSANews | FALL 2024 | 5
Bird Talk Dear Bird Talk, We appreciate all of CSA’s work on increasing our eligible days in the U.S. and all of the other great info and support you provide. Regarding the Retiree Visa: We travel with our Canadian-registered RV to many locations in various states. The last update stipulates that eligible retirees must own a residence or have a signed rental agreement for accommodations in the U.S. for the duration of the alien’s stay. We always stay in commercial RV parks. Would our numerous short-term park rentals qualify us for the Retiree Visa? Chris & Daryl Spires Crocker Hill, NB Ed.: CSA is working hard to get this legislation ratified in the U.S. Senate and House of Representatives. Canadian RV owners and their unique mobile lifestyle are part of the discussion, which includes lobbying to include them in the accommodation requirement of the Canadian Retiree Visa. Stay tuned! Dear Bird Talk, We are taking a Panama Canal cruise leaving from Fort Lauderdale, returning from Panama City, Panama. We will only be in the U.S. for the one day, but do we have to count the entire trip as being in the U.S.? Louise Esch Calgary, AB Ed.: Your trip to the U.S. to board the cruise ship should be counted as “IN-TRANSIT,” not as a visit to the United States. Dear Bird Talk, If we plan to sell our property in Florida, what is the process for getting the money back into our Canadian account? Are there tax rules that apply? Say we get $150,000 and we had purchased for $85,000. Dorothy Mitchell Napanee, ON Ed.: Once the transaction has been completed, including any capital gains taxes that would be payable, you could write yourself a cheque and deposit the money into your Canadian bank account. Dear Bird Talk, In looking at the new requirements for taking a dog into the U.S., as stated on the CSA site, the form is valid for multiple entries into the U.S. for the duration of the rabies vaccination’s validity (one or three years), if the rabies vaccination was administered in Canada. Will that form also be valid if someone is returning to the U.S. from Mexico? Vincent Crosswell Kamloops, BC Ed.: The form which is now required for Canadian dog owners travelling to the United States is the CDC Dog Import Form, which is valid for up to six months. However, you will require a new CDC Dog Import Form listing Mexico as the country of departure when you return to the United States en route to Canada. You have to go to the CDC website, fill out the form and display the receipt on your smart phone or print it out for presentation to the CBP officer. Dear Bird Talk, My dog was born in the U.S. and is vaccinated annually there before we head back to Canada. He travels with a certification from his vet re: rabies and all other vaccinations he receives. Last one was done in March 2024. Will I be required to get him vaccinated again and wait the six months after he is also microchipped? Meaning that we would have to stay in Canada this winter until February at least? This is a lot of medication for a small 12 lb dog and I do not understand why a Canadian vet cannot verify his paperwork from the U.S. vet and complete the necessary forms. Please provide additional clarification. Denise Lacroix Cobourg, ON Ed.: Good news! The additional documentation that was originally being considered as a requirement by the CDC, including a veterinarian-certified form, is no longer required. Now, dogs entering the United States from low-risk countries such as Canada will require a receipt for a CDC Dog Import Form, either printed on paper or saved on your mobile phone, be at least six months old and healthy, and have a microchip that can be detected with a universal scanner. You can get the Dog Import Form from the following link: www.cdc.gov/importation/dogs/rabiesfree-low-risk-countries.html Or just “google” CDC Dog Import Form – it will take you there. 6 | www.snowbirds.org
Bird Talk Featuring the letters & concerns of our members SEND YOUR LETTERS TO Bird Talk, c/o CSANews 180 Lesmill Road Toronto, Ontario M3B 2T5 Online at www.snowbirds.org/bird-talk or by e-mail: csawriteus@snowbirds.org Bird Talk Ed.: We will be sure to pass that along. Robert Wiersema does a great job recommending engaging books to read. Dear Bird Talk, We are just looking to confirm that we can be away from Nova Scotia and be in the U.S. for a total of seven months now without losing our medical coverage in Nova Scotia? To the best of my knowledge, this used to only be 180 days, not seven months? Steve Bones Halifax, NS Ed.: You are permitted to be out of Nova Scotia for up to seven months in a 12-month period. However you are only permitted to visit the United States for up to six months in any 12-month period. Two different jurisdictions, two separate sets of rules. Dear Bird Talk, If your home in Florida is the only residence you own, can it be claimed as your permanent residence? John Willmott Burlington, ON Ed.: No! You are a Canadian citizen and your permanent residence is in Canada, whether you own it or not. Furthermore, you must maintain your residential status in order to enjoy the benefits of your OHIP coverage, which validates your travel medical insurance when you leave Canada. Dear Bird Talk, If I go into the U.S. for a month, then go to Mexico for three months, then back to the U.S., do the three months count in my time allowed in the U.S.? I get entrance and exit stamps from Mexico. Heather Cowan Maxville, ON Ed.: No. Since you will have been out of the United States for more than 30 days, your B-2 visitor visa will have expired. When you enter the United States from Mexico after 90 days, a new B-2 visitor visa will be issued. The 90 days in Mexico would not be counted as days in the U.S. Dear Bird Talk, Last year, we bought a car in Florida with the hope of leaving it there while we are back home. When we went to get our insurance, boy, were we shocked. I guess we underestimated how expensive it would be. The annual cost – which included six months of “vacation” – was more than double what we pay in Canada for two vehicles with more coverage. Has the CSA ever researched car insurance and if there are companies with reasonable rates? Any advice would help. Jamie Ballem Marshfield, PE Ed.: I suspect that the cost of automobile insurance in the state of Florida is much higher than insuring a vehicle in Prince Edward Island. We have found that local Allstate agents typically offer fair treatment to Canadian visitors upon presentation of a Motor Vehicle Record and a clean loss history report from your Canadian insurer. Dear Bird Talk, Hello. I do enjoy reading “Bird Talk.” However, as a retired CPA, I do shudder at times with your advice regarding transfers of U.S. property to children or sales to outside parties. I am not an expert on U.S. tax rules or any differences between houses on leased land versus freehold properties. I do know for certain that the CRA will be looking for taxes on gains on either property when sold or when gifted to children. I have written to you about this in the past but received no answer. I would appreciate a response, even if you do not wish to publish this. Thank you, Dennis Zinger Elora ON. Ed.: When you sell a property in the United States and pay capital gains taxes to the U.S. government, you would report that tax payment when you file your taxes in Canada. There is a tax treaty between Canada and the United States which is in place to prevent double taxation. You would report the gain on your Canadian tax return, as well as any capital gains taxes paid in the United States. If the taxes paid in the United States were sufficient to meet the taxes payable for the capital gain to the CRA, then no further taxes would be payable. If the taxes paid in the United States were not sufficient to meet the tax obligation on the capital gain to the CRA, then you would pay the CRA the difference. Dear Bird Talk, Thank you very much to the book reviewer (I don’t have his name in front of me) who recommended the Kelly Armstrong Rip Through Time series. What an outstanding recommendation! I’m enjoying the books immensely! Valerie Candelaria Guelph, ON CSANews | FALL 2024 | 7
A guide for how to resolve a complaint with your bank If you have a problem with your bank, you have the right to file a complaint. Here are the steps to follow: Step 1: A sk a bank representative for help This can be someone from the branch, their call centre or the online chat function. Before you file your complaint, you should: ▶ review your bank’s complaint-handling process, ▶ write down details about the problem so that you can explain the facts clearly, ▶ gather supporting information with specific dates and names, and ▶ think about what you’d like the bank to do, for example, repay any fees that you were charged. Step 2: Escalate If the issue isn’t resolved within 14 days, ask the bank to refer your case to its complaint-handling department. If you’re not satisfied with the resolution offered, the bank must provide you with a detailed written response. Step 3: Call in the reinforcements Fifty-six days after you first filed your complaint, if the issue isn’t resolved to your satisfaction, file your complaint with the external complaints body (ECB). This is an independent organization that provides a free and impartial review of your complaint. Ask your bank how to contact the ECB. You can also report your complaint to the Financial Consumer Agency of Canada (FCAC). While the FCAC does not resolve individual disputes and does not provide redress or compensation, it uses complaint data to identify situations in which banks don’t comply with their obligations. Learn more about how to file a complaint with your bank at canada.ca/money. Snowbird Alert source: Newscanada.com Have you heard about the Canadian Dental Care Plan (CDCP)? It’s a federal government program that helps reduce the cost of dental care for Canadian residents with a family income of less than $90,000, who do not have access to dental insurance. Here are four things that you should know about the plan. What does it cover? The plan helps cover a wide range of oral health services for eligible Canadians, such as examinations, teeth cleaning, X-rays, fillings, dentures, root canals and oral surgeries. Some services may only be available as of November 2024 and will require prior approval on the recommendation of an oral health provider. When can I apply? The application process began in stages, starting with seniors. As of June 27, 2024, two more groups could sign up for the plan: children under the age of 18 and adults with a valid Disability Tax Credit certificate. When will other adults be able to apply? All other eligible Canadian residents will be able to apply in 2025. Once fully rolled out, the plan aims to help reduce the cost of dental care for up to nine million Canadians. Does it fully cover all dental expenses? The CDCP will reimburse a portion of the cost, based on established plan fees and your annual family income. There are three tiers of coverage that are based on household income. ▶ If you have a family income lower than $70,000, 100 per cent of the plan’s established fee for eligible services will be covered; ▶ If your family income is between $70,000 and $79,999, 60 per cent of the plan’s established fee for eligible services will be covered; ▶ If your family income is between $80,000 and $89,999, 40 per cent of the plan’s established fee for eligible services will be covered. The plan may not cover the full cost of your treatment, even if you have a family income lower than $70,000. You may have to pay a portion of the cost if the plan’s established fees are lower than what your provider normally charges. Additionally, you may agree to receive treatment that is not covered by the plan. Before receiving oral health care, you should always confirm that your provider is accepting CDCP members and that they will bill Sun Life for direct payment. Also, always ask about any costs that won’t be covered by the plan. Learn more about the plan at canada.ca/ dental. Four things to know about the Canadian Dental Care Plan 8 | www.snowbirds.org
ZOLADEX® is a registered trademark of AstraZeneca or its affiliates and is used herein under license. TERSERA and the TERSERA LOGO are registered trademarks of TerSera Therapeutics LLC. © 2024 TerSera Therapeutics LLC. All rights reserved. ZOLADEX® Patients: Worldwide Injection Support Program For patients who are currently prescribed ZOLADEX® and plan to travel outside Canada, ask your doctor about how the ZOLADEX® Worldwide Injection Support Program may be able to support you abroad.
President’s Message Garry McDonald CSA President In May, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) announced that they would be changing the regulations governing the importation of dogs to the United States, including pet dogs visiting temporarily from Canada. Prior to this announcement, the CDC only required that pet dogs from Canada appeared healthy and be vaccinated against rabies. The proposed changes from the CDC would require pet dogs from Canada to be at least six months of age, be microchipped and be accompanied by two forms: a CDC Dog Import Form receipt and a secondary form verifying their rabies vaccination to be administered by a licensed veterinarian in Canada. Both Canadian travellers visiting the United States temporarily, as well as American citizens returning home to the United States with their pet dogs would have been subject to these new regulations. These proposed requirements would pose an unnecessary burden on both Canadian and American travellers. They would also hinder cross-border travel and impact tourism in both countries, as U.S. Customs and Border Protection officers would require additional time to verify the onerous paperwork required for entry. Further, these changes would complicate air travel, as many airlines remain unclear regarding how to implement these regulation changes. Upon hearing of these changes, the CSA reached out to both the CDC and the United States Secretary of Health and Human Services, Xavier Becerra, urging them to reverse course on these proposed regulation changes given the unnecessary burden which they would place on both Canadian and American travellers crossing the border. Further, the CSA also highlighted that the proposed requirements for pet dogs coming from high-risk and low-risk countries would be almost identical. This made little sense, since both Canada and the United States are free of dog rabies and share the same public health goal to prevent rabies. In late July, prior to the effective date of the new changes coming into effect, the CDC announced that they would be simplifying the requirements for pet dogs entering the United States from low-risk countries – including Canada – making them more travel-friendly. As of August 1, 2024, the new regulation changes require pet dogs from Canada to appear healthy upon arrival, be at least six months old, have a microchip that can be detected with a universal scanner and be accompanied by a CDC Dog Import Form receipt. The CDC withdrew their requirement for a secondary form and also simplified the CDC Dog Import Form for Canadians and other low-risk travellers. The CDC Dog Import Form and further information can be accessed from the CDC website here, www.cdc.gov/importation/dogs/ rabies-free-low-risk-countries.html. I would like to thank the Secretary of Health and Human Services, Xavier Becerra, and the leadership at the CDC for being responsive to our requests to make these policies more travel-friendly for CSA members and other travellers on both sides of the border. CSA staff are busy assembling the 10th edition of the Canadian Travellers’ Report Card. This is a national evaluation of federal, provincial and territorial government policies and regulations of importance to travelling Canadians. Our approach is to research these policies and practices and then share the information with each government so that they have an opportunity to review our work and comment before we publish our research. After receiving feedback from government officials across Canada, we retain an independent consultant to evaluate our findings and assign a grade to each category. The final report is then made available to our members on our website and sent to governments throughout Canada. It is a critical tool when we sit down with our elected officials. Look for its release at Snowbird Extravaganza in January of 2025. This year, our Fall Lifestyle Presentations will visit Ontario; our tour will begin on September 10 in Parry Sound. We will also be making stops in Owen Sound, Port Hope, Nepean, Belleville, Markham, Chatham-Kent and St. Catharines. As always, admission is free to all of the shows. Along with the great entertainment, they are also an excellent source of information for both veteran and new snowbirds alike, so please feel free to bring your friends. Specific dates and times are available by clicking on the Events tab on our website at www.snowbirds.org. I’m looking forward to seeing all of you at one of our many shows during the fall and winter months. Safe travels. 10 | www.snowbirds.org
Government Relations Report Johanne Blain First Vice-President This summer, CSA representatives participated in an engagement session organized by Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) regarding their travel modernization program – a multiyear initiative seeking to provide safe, efficient and modern voluntary digital tools to enhance the travel experience for Canadians and visitors crossing the border into Canada. The purpose of this consultation was to reach out to various stakeholders, including the Canadian Snowbird Association (CSA), to receive feedback about a series of initiatives currently under development by CBSA. CBSA plans to host additional consultation sessions throughout the coming months and years in which the CSA will continue to participate, to ensure that the voices of our members are heard. When crossing the border into Canada, CBSA already provides travellers with the option of using digital tools. Two of the most notable examples are: ▶ Completing your customs and immigration declaration in advance when arriving at certain Canadian international airports, using Advance Declaration via the ArriveCAN app on your smartphone or computer to access express lanes; and ▶ Using a digital kiosk or eGate to verify your identity quickly and securely. CBSA is currently in the process of expanding these technologies and producing new, self-service digital tools to create a more seamless experience for travellers. For example, the ability to submit an Advance Declaration prior to crossing the border will not only be available to air travellers, but to travellers entering Canada via the land and sea borders as well. Use of the Advance Declaration will remain voluntary and travellers will continue to have the option of being processed in person by a border services officer. Additionally, as part of the travel modernization initiative, new border-related features will become available in ArriveCAN. Through the use of smartphones and other devices, CBSA will implement a digital traveller experience which will: ▶ Allow travellers to transmit vehicle, biographic and biometric identity information to the CBSA before arriving in Canada; ▶ Enable the electronic submission of select, paper-based forms; and ▶ Provide an electronic alternative reporting method for travellers entering Canada at a location at which there is no CBSA presence. Canada Border Services Agency intends to implement a phased approach to increasing the use of these digital tools to more travellers. Initially, CBSA will enhance the ArriveCAN application and expand the Advance Declaration to those entering Canada at a land port of entry. The next phase will include use of the Advance Declaration for travellers entering Canada by sea. One of the initiatives that the Canadian Snowbird Association has been pushing the federal government to adopt is updating the arrival process for pleasure boaters returning to Canada. Currently, when coming back to Canada, Canadian boat operators with vessels carrying fewer than 30 passengers are required to report their return to Canada Border Services Agency (CBSA) in one of two ways. Boaters can choose to travel to an open marine reporting site, contact CBSA’s Telephone Reporting Centre and request clearance to enter Canada; or they can report directly in person at one of the open designated marine reporting site locations staffed by CBSA. These methods for reporting are antiquated and require updating in order to streamline the return process for both boat operators and Canada Border Services Agency. Looking at other jurisdictions, such as the United States, we see how these new digital tools can effectively modernize the arrival process. Since 2018, American pleasure boaters returning to the United States have been able to report their return through the CBP ROAM app, a free mobile application which allows boaters to report their return through their personal smart device or tablet. Once the application is downloaded to a smart device, travellers are required to input traveller and mode of transportation information, which is then saved to their profile. Upon their return, boaters can report their arrival electronically through the app, which then prompts CBP to conduct a video call interview with a customs officer. Once the interview is conducted, boaters will receive confirmation of approval for their re-entry back into the United States. We are pleased that CBSA is addressing our concerns as part of their travel modernization program. By leveraging new technology, the arrival process will be made easier for Canadians returning back to Canada. As the travel modernization initiative progresses over the coming years, the CSA will continue to notify our members of any developments and how these will impact their border-crossing experience. Gilles and I wish you safe travels. CSANews | FALL 2024 | 11
J. Ross Quigley CEO Medipac International Inc. Insurance It was the first cold morning of the late summer. We awoke and made our way downstairs for the morning coffee, as is our ritual. Looking out the window at our five-pronged bird feeder, we saw a huge convention of birds greedily eating our offerings. There were seven cardinals, five various woodpeckers, four blue jays, four doves, three nuthatches and one each of golden finch, sparrow and chickadee. Amazing! After watching and marvelling at this beautiful display for some time, I finally realized what was going on – winter’s coming. They were all “stocking up” for the great migration south. It was a powerful reminder of things that we had to do to get ready for our journey south. We are snowbirds, of course, and I know that they are too. There are some critical things to take care of – your passport, travel insurance, a chip for your pet and any special needs for your personal situation. We recommend having a 10-year passport, and you must have a microchip in your pet to have them enter the United States. That microchip is very important to keep your pet safe and it only costs between $25 and $75 to have the procedure done. Just do it. Travel medical insurance is a must. Many snowbirds have some coverage from their prior employer, and some depend on their credit cards – which I do not recommend – but most are required to buy from one of the many companies that sell travel insurance. Every plan is different! Knowing exactly what the policy says and knowing what it really means are critical. Please read it. Watch out for low limits such as $10,000 or even $500,000; that is not enough. Read the pre-existing exclusions very carefully. Some plans will deny coverage if you are taking a medication. They will take your money, but they will not pay your claim. Some plans have very long stability periods such as five years. I certainly can’t remember what happened five years ago, can you? And what about age limits? These are on most credit card plans. Benefits cease at age 60 or age 65 and, very occasionally, age 70. The plans which I dislike the most are the ones that exclude any coverage for the illness or injury that you have, or even have had. Never buy a policy that will not pay your claim for the most likely thing to happen to you. Our Medipac Travel Insurance Guide has several thoughts and recommendations and you should read it. If you did not get one, simply call our office and we can send you one. It is also online at: www.Medipac.com. We have redesigned our insurance card to make it easier to read for both you and any medical provider. We hope that you like it. I am ready to join the real birds escaping the winter, are you? Safe travels. 12 | www.snowbirds.org
Opinion with Michael Coren We’ve recently commemorated the 80th anniversary of D-Day and it’s important to remember that during the Second World War, Canada punched substantially above its weight. More than a million Canadians and Newfoundlanders (the province didn’t join the national federation until 1949) served, and 45,000 lost their lives. Canadian pilots excelled in the Battle of Britain and then in Bomber Command and, by 1945, the Canadian navy was the fourth largest in the world. Eighty years ago, on D-Day, five beaches were invaded – two by the Americans, two by the British and one – Juno – by the Canadians. Quite extraordinary for a country of then fewer than 12 million people. Something that is perhaps less well-known is that Canadian soldiers were also the victims of one of the worst military atrocities of the entire Second World War. In the days following the invasion, between June 7 and 11, 156 men were executed after surrendering. That figure represents one in seven of all Canadians who died in the first week after D-Day. It’s a quite extraordinary statistic. This includes the single killing of unarmed and often wounded men, as well as the mass execution of prisoners who were protected under the Geneva Convention and posed no threat to their captors. The perpetrators of these atrocities were soldiers of the 12th SS Panzer Division (Hitler Youth) but only one of those responsible, Colonel Kurt Meyer, was ever charged. In other words, the crime went largely unpunished. The murders began on June 7, when a number of North Nova Scotia Highlanders and the Sherbrooke Fusiliers were captured after the battle of Authie. That night, 11 Canadians were taken into a garden and shot in the head. Seven more were murdered in the early hours of the following morning. On June 8, 64 Canadians – many from the Royal Winnipeg Rifles – were taken prisoner. They were taken to the Château d’Audrieu under the command of the 12th SS Panzer and 45 of them were slaughtered in separate batches. After the battle of Bretteville-surOdon, 36 Canadian prisoners – mainly from the Cameron Highlanders and Regina Rifles – were executed, some shot at point-blank range and others by machine gun fire. On June 11, Canadian troops from the 2nd Armoured Brigade and the Queen’s Own Rifles were defeated in an attack close to the village of Le Mesnil-Patry. Their losses were heavy, and many were wounded. After the defeat, a number of the prisoners were shot by their captors. In one incident, a Canadian was shot dead but his two comrades survived, escaped and were able to report what had happened. These survivors weren’t alone. As the killings continued in the days to come, the Germans tried to hide their crimes, but the allies were advancing and as they did, they found increasing evidence and heard more testimonies from witnesses. Several weeks later, a Canadian newspaper headline announced, “Canuck Soldiers Murdered!” The campaign following the invasion was intense and costly, however, and there was little time to investigate war crimes while attacks and counterattacks were happening daily, if not hourly. By the time the Nazis surrendered, their obscene behaviour towards civilian populations and the full horror of the Holocaust was emerging and the fate of 156 young Canadians was, if not forgotten, relegated to secondary status. Many, likely most, of the SS grenadiers who had been involved were dead. However, there were still official inquiries and written accounts, and the commander of the 12th SS Panzer Kurt Meyer was eventually put on trial in December 1945. Canadian and German soldiers and French civilians gave evidence. Meyer was sentenced to death but, on appeal, this was reduced to life imprisonment. The Canadian public was outraged, the Soviet Union considered demanding he be sent to Moscow to face a trial for alleged war crimes committed when he’d served on the eastern front but, instead, Meyer was sent to a prison in New Brunswick, Canada. He asked for clemency in 1951, in an era when the U.S. and Britain were looking to West Germany as an ally against Soviet expansion. He was returned to Germany, released in 1954, became active as an apologist for the Waffen SS and died of natural causes in 1961, lionized by many in Germany. There are memorials in Canada and in Normandy to the victims of the Normandy Massacres. But not many, and the names of the victims are mostly forgotten. Fifteen thousand people attended the funeral of Kurt Meyer. My hearts breaks, with sorrow and anger. CSANews | FALL 2024 | 13
Story and photos © Barb & Ron Kroll In Issue 85 (Winter 2012), we wrote about Malaysia for CSANews. Years later, we returned to Malaysia and discovered that we had missed its most astonishing state – Sarawak. To get to the largest of Malaysia’s 13 states – located on the northwest coast of Borneo, the world’s third-largest island – we flew for 100 minutes from Malaysia’s capital Kuala Lumpur to Sarawak’s modern capital city, Kuching. From here, we joined a guided cultural tour that was punctuated with surprises. We knew that we’d spend a night in a former headhunter’s longhouse, but we didn’t expect to see a bundle of severed human skulls hanging from the rafters when we arrived. Cobwebs spanned the lifeless eye sockets of the purloined heads, so we realized with relief that they weren’t fresh. Our tour guide Joseph was Bidayuh – one of 27 ethnic groups in Sarawak. “We’re also called Land Dayaks,” he explained, “because years ago, the Ibans drove us inland. Ibans are the largest group, comprising 30% of the population. They had the reputation of being the most fearsome of Borneo’s headhunters. The longhouse where we’re staying is Iban. I also grew up in a longhouse, and I speak Iban as well as Bidayuh.” SURPRISING SARAWAK What do peppercorns, a river journey and headhunters have in common? 14 | www.snowbirds.org Travel
Honey, we’re not in Toronto, anymore… Our journey to the longhouse also had its share of unexpected encounters. It began with a four-hour drive on the Trans-Borneo Highway. The 235-kilometre trip flew by quickly thanks to numerous distractions, ranging from rice paddies and cocoa plantations to beautiful purple-and-white wild orchids bordering our route. We visited a pepper plantation which resembled a vineyard, with vines growing up stakes. “Did you know that green, red, white and black peppercorns all come from the same plant?” asked the owner, who held out a grape-like cluster for us to examine. “They change from green to yellow and then red. Dried green berries turn black. To make white peppercorns, we soak red berries in sacks in the river for two weeks and then we wash away the skins and dry them.” When we stopped in Serian for lunch, we were stunned to see a man tie the sharpclawed feet of a slaughtered monitor lizard to a pole for easy transport. He uttered something to Joseph, who translated: “Good meat. Tastes like chicken.” We should’ve seen that one coming. After lunch, we strolled through the market, viewing stacks of vegetables, baskets of fresh fish and bags of dried fish, as well as plastic containers, straw hats and brooms. According to Joseph, visitors traditionally bring gifts to the longhouse headman. “What do you buy as a house gift for a headman?” we asked. “Tuak,” advised Joseph. “It’s fermented rice wine.” We also bought gifts for the children – candy and small toys. Joseph suggested cigarettes for the adults. We hesitated, considering the health hazards. “Cigarettes are ideal for detaching leeches that cling to your skin,” he said. 1 2 3 5 4 6 7 8 1. Joseph examines wild purple-and-white orchids growing beside the Trans-Borneo Highway 2. Bags of dried fish in Serian’s market 3. Man holds a slaughtered monitor lizard in Serian 4. Basket of fresh fish in Serian’s market 5. Vines grow on stakes on pepper plantation 6. Pepper plantation owner holds out cluster of green peppercorns 7. Green peppercorns grow on vine 8. Shopping for fresh fish in Serian’s market CSANews | FALL 2024 | 15 Travel
“Leeches?” We shuddered, recalling that our trip included a jungle walk. We bought a few packs. Nearby, we met our boatman and motorized longboat for the one-hour journey on the Skrang River to the longhouse. A refreshing breeze wafted over us as we skimmed the café au lait-coloured river bordered by dense emerald foliage. We watched fishermen casting bamboo traps and longboats transporting sacks of peppercorns. Rounding a bend, we glimpsed a long, wooden structure. “It’s on stilts to prevent animals from entering,” explained Joseph, as we docked beside other longboats. “This longhouse has 23 families. Some are much larger, with up to 100 households under one roof. There are thousands of longhouses in Sarawak, especially along the Skrang, Lemanak, Batang Ai and Rejang Rivers.” Children greeted us as we climbed the notched log ladder at the entrance. Joseph introduced us to Headman Bansing, who warmly welcomed us inside. “How was your harvest?” we asked, with Joseph translating. Delighted that we knew the traditional greeting, he smiled and responded that it was good. “Iban people believe that visitors bring good luck,” said Joseph. We removed our shoes to tour the premises. A covered veranda, with rows of support posts, extended along the length of the house. Doors opened into family quarters. Longhouses are renowned for their hospitality, and this one was no exception. A petite grandmother greeted us and told Joseph: “It’s been too long since you’ve been here.” One family invited us into their home and proudly showed us their ceramic heirloom jars. Used for storing tuak, rice and other staples, they were obtained from trade hundreds of years ago and passed from one generation to the next. The kitchen had a propane stove and a woodfuelled fireplace. Family members sat in a circle on the floor eating dinner from several small communal dishes. “Their main dish is barking deer,” said Joseph. “It tastes like pork.” “While I cook dinner, you can visit the families,” he said. In the waning light on the veranda, grandparents sat on woven mats, playing with their grandchildren. Women and men wove baskets by flickering candlelight. 1 3 2 4 5 1. Longboat transports sacks of peppercorns on Skrang River 2. Longboats dock below Iban longhouse 3. Iban woman fuels kitchen fireplace with wood while Joseph prepares dinner 4. Fisherman views motorised longboat on the Skrang River 5. Joseph cooks dinner on propane stove in longhouse kitchen 16 | www.snowbirds.org Travel
Poison Darts One man made darts for his blowpipe. After attaching a chunk of pith to one end of the shaft for stability, he notched the opposite pointed tip so that it would break upon hitting its target, leaving the poisoned tip inside. Older people spoke only Iban. The younger generations also spoke Malay and English learned in boarding schools, which they attended on weekdays. We communicated surprisingly well with a smattering of Malay, English and sign language. Joseph called us to a delicious dinner of stir-fried chicken and vegetables, deep-fried fish, rice and steamed jungle fern, which reminded us of asparagus. We used the family’s dishes and cutlery and, like them, sat on the floor to eat. After dinner, the warm glow of kerosene lamps and candles illuminated the veranda. Families displayed their handicrafts – baskets, mats, beaded bracelets, wooden carvings and woven wall hangings. There was no pressure to buy, although the low prices almost guaranteed a sale. We completed our shopping and gave the headman the tuak and gifts. He graciously accepted them, opened the packages and divided them into 23 equal mounds. Our host opened the bottle of tuak and poured some against the longhouse pillar for the ground spirits, before filling a glass. He took the first sip (as is customary, to prove that it wasn’t poisoned) and then offered us each a drink. The tuak was cloudy and sweet, with a kick that we didn’t feel until we tried to stand up. Musicians began playing drums and gongs. The women – some wearing special-occasion beaded collars and traditional silver headpieces, and others wearing everyday sarongs – performed graceful welcome dances. We applauded in appreciation. The dancers each shook our hands and then stopped by the headman to pick up their gifts. The Iban men, now dressed as warriors with loincloths and hornbill-feathered headdresses, performed a combat dance. Armed with long swords and colourful shields, they pierced the air with battle cries. Lulled into a comfortable stupor by the tuak, we enjoyed the show until one of the men, with an outstretched tattooed arm, invited us up to dance. Suddenly, we realized that we were part of the entertainment. You don’t say no to someone carrying an arm’s-length sword, decorated with strands of human hair – even if it was only his great-grandfather who was the headhunter. We didn’t do a perfect rendition of the dance, but everyone clapped politely, nonetheless. Afterwards, our hosts served tea and biscuits. 1. Iban man makes poison darts for his blowpipe 2. Sitting on the floor to eat dinner with Joseph 3. Woman displays handicrafts 4. Iban woman wears a special-occasion traditional silver headpiece 5. Tattooed Iban man with hornbill-feathered headdress performs combat dance with colourful shield 6. Iban woman wears a special-occasion beaded collar during a welcome dance 1 3 4 5 6 2 CSANews | FALL 2024 | 17 Travel
Pierced Ears & Body Art Using our guide as a translator, we asked an elderly man about his age. “I’m 70 times the harvest,” he replied. We noted that his pierced ears drooped from large earrings that once enlarged the holes. “Younger men have surgery to remove the dangling lobes to look more modern,” explained Joseph. Likewise, only older men had tattoos. “They punctured the skin with a mixture of honey and charcoal,” said Joseph. “In the old days, tattoos indicated that a man was brave in war or had taken heads.” Headman Bansing pointed to his arms. “Each tattoo is from a different trip,” he said. As families retired to their quarters for the night, our host brought out a foam mattress, clean sheets and pillows and laid them on the veranda for our bed. We drifted off to sleep, serenaded by a jungle chorus of screeches, squawks and chirps. Suddenly, we both woke up. Something was moving in the darkness near the skulls. “Did I drink too much tuak last night, or did you see what I saw?” “I saw it too. What is it?” “I don’t know, but it’s sliding along the floor towards us.” Fumbling for our flashlight, we focused the beam on a burlap bag. It squealed. Relieved to learn that it was only a piglet destined for the morning market, we tried to fall asleep. No success. A group of hunters returned from their jungle hunt. Pigs snuffled on the ground below the floorboards. Roosters crowed. Chickens clucked. By dawn, the women were up preparing breakfast. The men needed a hearty meal before their three-hour walk to the rice paddies for a full day of work. As Joseph cooked eggs for our breakfast, we watched a woman on the balcony winnow rice. She repeatedly flipped the grains from a handwoven tray into the air, to allow the wind to blow away the chaff. 1 2 3 4 1. Gong-player with body art and pierced earlobes 2. Tattooed dancer with feathered headdress 3. Headman Bansing with tattoo souvenirs from trips 4. Dancer with tattooed neck and pierced earlobes 18 | www.snowbirds.org Travel
Whatever You Do, Don’t Inhale After breakfast, a hunter offered to show us how to use a blowpipe. “The trick,” he said, “is to blow from your chest, not your mouth.” We, each in turn, grasped the pole and discovered that it wasn’t as easy as it looked. It swayed. Thwup! Our darts failed to reach the target. Iban hunters can hit a target 25 metres away. “If we want deer for dinner, we aim for the leg, so that we can cut out the poison before it taints the meat,” he explained. “The poison is ipoh tree sap. It can kill in three minutes. We know which jungle plants are antidotes.” Joseph introduced us to other medicinal plants during a jungle walk. With pants tucked into our socks, to protect our shins from leaches, we discovered that the jungle was not only a pharmacy, it was also a grocery and hardware store. “We use this rough leaf like sandpaper to smooth blowpipes. And see this large leaf? When hunters are in the jungle, they wrap rice inside and steam it. They also use the leaf as a plate.” Returning to the longhouse before our return trip to Kuching, we had to satisfy our curiosity about the skulls. “Who were they?” we asked. “Enemies,” replied Joseph. “The Ibans were headhunters until 1839. James Brooke – a British adventurer who became Rajah of Sarawak after quelling a tribal rebellion – put an end to headhunting. When the Japanese invaded during the Second World War, the practice resumed.” “Why did they sever the heads?” we asked. “They weren’t just trophies. Ibans believed that if they killed the enemy leader, they would capture his spirit and control it. By giving it offerings, the spirit would be happy and do what they wanted it to do.” Small baskets containing rice, eggs and meat hung from the longhouse ceiling like palm leafwrapped smoke detectors. “Why are some of the skulls black?” we inquired. “They smoked the skulls to dry them after removing the flesh,” replied Joseph. “Nowadays, we still light fires below the skulls to keep them warm. You must never let them get wet and shiver. I remember, as a boy, hearing the skulls grind their teeth when they got wet. It was scary!” Nor must you ever let the skulls go hungry. Judging by the numerous offering baskets in this longhouse, the Iban occupants extend their traditional hospitality to the severed heads, as well as to guests. Resources For more information, visit sarawaktourism.com and www.malaysia.travel or phone Tourism Malaysia in Vancouver at 604-689-8899. Barb & Ron Kroll publish the trip-planning website www.KrollTravel.com 1. Iban hunter demonstrates how to use a blowpipe 2. Small baskets containing rice, eggs and meat hang from the longhouse ceiling as offerings to the spirits of the headhunted 3. Headhunted human skull hanging from longhouse ceiling 4. Iban hunter with blowpipe returns to the longhouse 1 3 2 4 CSANews | FALL 2024 | 19 Travel
Snowbirds driving to Florida on Interstate-75, may not realize that in North Georgia, they are passing many Civil War battle sites. One of the most dramatic is the 67-mile Great Locomotive Chase when Union spies stole a Confederate steam engine, the General ... and were chased by its crew to recapture it. In 1956, Walt Disney released a movie featuring this epic chase which crosses the path of modern I-75 many times. Let’s slip back in time to Saturday, April 12, 1862 and experience this historic drama running north from Big Shanty (Kennesaw) to Ringgold, just south of the Tennessee line. It’s 6 a.m. on a cold, rainy day and the General’s conductor William Fuller and engineer Jeff Cain have stopped at Big Shanty for breakfast, after picking up supplies to take north to the Confederates besieged in Chattanooga. Their locomotive, a W&A 25-ton 4-4-0 “American” sits beside the platform idling while the crew enjoys their break. Soon they will be back aboard to head north, completely unaware that three men in the train’s passenger coach are intent on stealing the General and destroying track, wooden bridges and telegraph communications as they steam north, thereby damaging the vital Confederate supply link to besieged Chattanooga. Dressed in civvies, leader James Andrews is a non-military spy assisted by the other two who will “drive” the General. Hidden in an attached boxcar is an armed band of Yankee soldiers from Ohio – all will become known as “Andrews Raiders.” The time is now – Andrews and his companions nonchalantly leave their seats, mentioning to several passengers, “We’re off to find coffee.” In the east, dawn is breaking. Slowly, the men move along the shadowy left side of the train and quietly disconnect the passenger coach from the three boxcars attached to the General’s tender. The Great Locomotive Chase Today, the General is on display at the Locomotive Museum in Kennesaw. Photo: CCO Dave Hunter is the award-winning author of “Along Interstate-75” and “Along Florida’s Expressways” the quintessential guides for those driving to and in Florida. With his researcher wife Kathy, he enjoys travelling with history, gathering unusual and mysterious local stories. The Hunters winter in Lakeland, Florida. 20 | www.snowbirds.org Travel
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