Honey, we’re not in Toronto, anymore… Our journey to the longhouse also had its share of unexpected encounters. It began with a four-hour drive on the Trans-Borneo Highway. The 235-kilometre trip flew by quickly thanks to numerous distractions, ranging from rice paddies and cocoa plantations to beautiful purple-and-white wild orchids bordering our route. We visited a pepper plantation which resembled a vineyard, with vines growing up stakes. “Did you know that green, red, white and black peppercorns all come from the same plant?” asked the owner, who held out a grape-like cluster for us to examine. “They change from green to yellow and then red. Dried green berries turn black. To make white peppercorns, we soak red berries in sacks in the river for two weeks and then we wash away the skins and dry them.” When we stopped in Serian for lunch, we were stunned to see a man tie the sharpclawed feet of a slaughtered monitor lizard to a pole for easy transport. He uttered something to Joseph, who translated: “Good meat. Tastes like chicken.” We should’ve seen that one coming. After lunch, we strolled through the market, viewing stacks of vegetables, baskets of fresh fish and bags of dried fish, as well as plastic containers, straw hats and brooms. According to Joseph, visitors traditionally bring gifts to the longhouse headman. “What do you buy as a house gift for a headman?” we asked. “Tuak,” advised Joseph. “It’s fermented rice wine.” We also bought gifts for the children – candy and small toys. Joseph suggested cigarettes for the adults. We hesitated, considering the health hazards. “Cigarettes are ideal for detaching leeches that cling to your skin,” he said. 1 2 3 5 4 6 7 8 1. Joseph examines wild purple-and-white orchids growing beside the Trans-Borneo Highway 2. Bags of dried fish in Serian’s market 3. Man holds a slaughtered monitor lizard in Serian 4. Basket of fresh fish in Serian’s market 5. Vines grow on stakes on pepper plantation 6. Pepper plantation owner holds out cluster of green peppercorns 7. Green peppercorns grow on vine 8. Shopping for fresh fish in Serian’s market CSANews | FALL 2024 | 15 Travel
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