“Leeches?” We shuddered, recalling that our trip included a jungle walk. We bought a few packs. Nearby, we met our boatman and motorized longboat for the one-hour journey on the Skrang River to the longhouse. A refreshing breeze wafted over us as we skimmed the café au lait-coloured river bordered by dense emerald foliage. We watched fishermen casting bamboo traps and longboats transporting sacks of peppercorns. Rounding a bend, we glimpsed a long, wooden structure. “It’s on stilts to prevent animals from entering,” explained Joseph, as we docked beside other longboats. “This longhouse has 23 families. Some are much larger, with up to 100 households under one roof. There are thousands of longhouses in Sarawak, especially along the Skrang, Lemanak, Batang Ai and Rejang Rivers.” Children greeted us as we climbed the notched log ladder at the entrance. Joseph introduced us to Headman Bansing, who warmly welcomed us inside. “How was your harvest?” we asked, with Joseph translating. Delighted that we knew the traditional greeting, he smiled and responded that it was good. “Iban people believe that visitors bring good luck,” said Joseph. We removed our shoes to tour the premises. A covered veranda, with rows of support posts, extended along the length of the house. Doors opened into family quarters. Longhouses are renowned for their hospitality, and this one was no exception. A petite grandmother greeted us and told Joseph: “It’s been too long since you’ve been here.” One family invited us into their home and proudly showed us their ceramic heirloom jars. Used for storing tuak, rice and other staples, they were obtained from trade hundreds of years ago and passed from one generation to the next. The kitchen had a propane stove and a woodfuelled fireplace. Family members sat in a circle on the floor eating dinner from several small communal dishes. “Their main dish is barking deer,” said Joseph. “It tastes like pork.” “While I cook dinner, you can visit the families,” he said. In the waning light on the veranda, grandparents sat on woven mats, playing with their grandchildren. Women and men wove baskets by flickering candlelight. 1 3 2 4 5 1. Longboat transports sacks of peppercorns on Skrang River 2. Longboats dock below Iban longhouse 3. Iban woman fuels kitchen fireplace with wood while Joseph prepares dinner 4. Fisherman views motorised longboat on the Skrang River 5. Joseph cooks dinner on propane stove in longhouse kitchen 16 | www.snowbirds.org Travel
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