Poison Darts One man made darts for his blowpipe. After attaching a chunk of pith to one end of the shaft for stability, he notched the opposite pointed tip so that it would break upon hitting its target, leaving the poisoned tip inside. Older people spoke only Iban. The younger generations also spoke Malay and English learned in boarding schools, which they attended on weekdays. We communicated surprisingly well with a smattering of Malay, English and sign language. Joseph called us to a delicious dinner of stir-fried chicken and vegetables, deep-fried fish, rice and steamed jungle fern, which reminded us of asparagus. We used the family’s dishes and cutlery and, like them, sat on the floor to eat. After dinner, the warm glow of kerosene lamps and candles illuminated the veranda. Families displayed their handicrafts – baskets, mats, beaded bracelets, wooden carvings and woven wall hangings. There was no pressure to buy, although the low prices almost guaranteed a sale. We completed our shopping and gave the headman the tuak and gifts. He graciously accepted them, opened the packages and divided them into 23 equal mounds. Our host opened the bottle of tuak and poured some against the longhouse pillar for the ground spirits, before filling a glass. He took the first sip (as is customary, to prove that it wasn’t poisoned) and then offered us each a drink. The tuak was cloudy and sweet, with a kick that we didn’t feel until we tried to stand up. Musicians began playing drums and gongs. The women – some wearing special-occasion beaded collars and traditional silver headpieces, and others wearing everyday sarongs – performed graceful welcome dances. We applauded in appreciation. The dancers each shook our hands and then stopped by the headman to pick up their gifts. The Iban men, now dressed as warriors with loincloths and hornbill-feathered headdresses, performed a combat dance. Armed with long swords and colourful shields, they pierced the air with battle cries. Lulled into a comfortable stupor by the tuak, we enjoyed the show until one of the men, with an outstretched tattooed arm, invited us up to dance. Suddenly, we realized that we were part of the entertainment. You don’t say no to someone carrying an arm’s-length sword, decorated with strands of human hair – even if it was only his great-grandfather who was the headhunter. We didn’t do a perfect rendition of the dance, but everyone clapped politely, nonetheless. Afterwards, our hosts served tea and biscuits. 1. Iban man makes poison darts for his blowpipe 2. Sitting on the floor to eat dinner with Joseph 3. Woman displays handicrafts 4. Iban woman wears a special-occasion traditional silver headpiece 5. Tattooed Iban man with hornbill-feathered headdress performs combat dance with colourful shield 6. Iban woman wears a special-occasion beaded collar during a welcome dance 1 3 4 5 6 2 CSANews | FALL 2024 | 17 Travel
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