IN THIS ISSUE TANTALIZING TUNISIA MESA MUST-DOS Travel TAKING CARE OF YOUR KIDNEYS Health DEFINING YOUR GIVING GOALS Finance OFFICIAL NEWS MAGAZINE OF THE CANADIAN SNOWBIRD ASSOCIATION | WINTER 2024 | ISSUE 133 Publication mail agreement no: 40063603
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Editor’s Message CSANews© is published four times a year and is Copyright Winter 2024 by Medipac International Communications Inc., 180 Lesmill Road, Toronto, Ontario M3B 2T5. 416.441.7000. Subscription Price: $9.95 Canada; $20.00 U.S. and foreign. Single copy: $3.95. Prices include tax. Published by Medipac International Communications Inc. Opinions expressed are those of the writers and are not necessarily those of the CSA, Medipac International Communications Inc. or its affiliates, their Directors, Officers, or other employees or agents. Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement No: 40063603. ISSN No: 1195-2393 Barb & Ron Kroll Dr. Robert MacMillan Shari McIntyre David McPherson Rex Vogel Robert Wiersema Judith Adam Gabrielle Bauer Donna Carter Michael Coren Jennifer Cox James Dolan Milan Korcok Garry McDonald Johanne Blain James Carl Simpson Ted Popel Marjorie Heisler Karen Huestis Wendy Caban Ronald Brown Debra Ann MacLean Kimberley Tetzlaff Michael MacKenzie Wallace Weylie President First Vice-President Second Vice-President Treasurer Secretary Past-President Director Director Director Director Executive Director Legal Counsel CSA BOARD OF DIRECTORS Editor CSA Editor President Art Director Director of Operations Marketing Coordinator Marketing & Events Specialist J. Ross Quigley Garry McDonald Christopher Davidge Peter Prusa Paula McGovern Stefanye Zee Fran Castricone WINTER 2024 | ISSUE 133 CONTRIBUTING EDITORS We acknowledge the support of the Government of Canada. Merv Magus Cover photo: iStock.com/monkeybusinessimages Illustrator It is that time of year again. We have heard hundreds of stories recently about people helping people following the horrible hurricanes – Helene and Milton. Neighbours helping neighbours and others, who had never really met before, are showing up with offers of help. First responders, electricians and tradespeople are everywhere, working long hours to bring things back to normal. They come from all over the country and some have come from Canada as well. They are there to help and they are doing a magnificent job of stabilizing the many communities that were severely damaged. People need electricity, they need water, they need gas or propane and they need something to eat. This is not to mention bathroom facilities and a means of getting around – even just to the grocery store. Many roads, once impossible to navigate have now been cleared and repaired. It is really a miracle how people have come together to help others solve their problems. The old adage “a problem shared is a problem solved” is being played out on a daily basis, everywhere. The Tampa newspapers are now reporting that 80% of businesses have reopened, with more opening every day. Every effort is being made to bring back the communities that we all enjoy. There is still work to do, but things are looking up and businesses are eager to welcome the snowbirds back. This holiday season will be one of celebration, once again. We have solved most of our problems – together – and the future is very bright. Take some time to enjoy your family and friends and welcome in the New Year. Sincerely, J. Ross Quigley Editor CSANews | WINTER 2024 | 3
Table of Contents WINTER 2024 | ISSUE 133 OFFICIAL NEWS MAGAZINE OF THE CANADIAN SNOWBIRD ASSOCIATION Canadians Dominate the Ranks of Florida’s International Arrivals In Q2 2024, Canada accounted for a larger percentage of foreign visitors to Florida than the next four nations combined – U.K., Brazil, Colombia and Mexico. By Milan Korcok Tantalizing Tunisia Discover ancient treasures, desert oases and unique film locations. by Barb & Ron Kroll Features 20 14 22 Bustling Mesa Has Something for Everyone, Especially Snowbirds There’s a reason why Canadian snowbirds flock to Mesa each winter. by Rex Vogel Travel RV Lifestyle 4 | www.snowbirds.org
Table of Contents 40 Golf by David McPherson 42 CSA Online by James Dolan 44 Gardening by Judith Adam 46 Food & Drink by Shari McIntyre 48 Fun & Games 49 Grins & Giggles 50 CSA Application 51 CSA Benefits 52 Canada Clubs 53 Snowbird Events 54 Fast Facts 3 Editor’s Message 6 Bird Talk 8 Snowbird Alert 10 President’s Message 11 Government Relations Report 12 Insurance by J. Ross Quigley 13 Opinion by Michael Coren 34 Health Pulse 36 Longevity by Jennifer Cox 38 Fitness by Jennifer Cox 39 Book Review by Robert Wiersema Health-care Costs for Canadian Families Need to be De-Mystified Analysis of the Fraser Institute’s recently released report, The Price of Public Health Care Insurance, 2024. By Milan Korcok 32 30 26 Kidney Disease Are you one of the four million Canadians with kidney disease? by Dr. Robert MacMillan Finance You Get What You Give How to give your money away – the right way. by James Dolan Health Departments CSANews | WINTER 2024 | 5
Bird Talk Dear Bird Talk, If we are in the U.S., does a 33-day stay in Thailand (flying out of LAX) come off of our 183 days allowed? Ryan Powell Aldersyde, AB Ed.: No. Since you will be leaving North America (Canada, United States & Mexico) for longer than 30 days, the 33-day trip to Thailand should not be included in your count for days spent in the United States. Dear Bird Talk, This summer, we spent 16 days in the states. Then we were back in Canada for 16 days. Following this, we were back in the states for another 14 days. We actually were on U.S. soil for only 30 days. Our friend says that there needs to be a specific time back in Canada, otherwise it is all counted as 46 days in the states? Fact or fiction? Can you please clarify the rules? Robert Bordun Red Deer, AB Ed.: Your friend is correct. The U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) officer processing your re-entry may treat this time as a continuous trip, as you were not outside of the United States for at least 30 days before returning. Dear Bird Talk, Why can’t we Canadian snowbirds be treated with greater acknowledgement of the impact that we have on the American economy? Instead, we are restricted to 183 days. Even if we travel back to Canada for Xmas, the time out of the U.S. is still counted towards the 183 days. Canada is U.S.’s closest ally and largest trading partner. The southern U.S. border is overrun with illegal immigrants, while we snowbirds line up and obey all laws and spend untold millions of dollars. I own my townhouse and pay property tax, but we don’t seem to garner the acknowledgement of our impact. It must now be going on six or seven years that the Snowbird Association has been attempting to increase the allowable time which we can spend in the U.S. with no luck. Even with the exchange rate, we look forward to heading down to our home in Florida. But the lack of progress with the snowbird visa and the unreasonable counting of days back to Canada are both beginning to have an effect on our future plans. We think that, as Canadians, we should be better acknowledged for our contribution to the economies in which we spend our undervalued money. We do not travel to the U.S. to take anything. We spend, to enhance their local economies. Robert (Bob) Gould Renfrew, ON Ed.: We couldn’t agree with you more, Bob. And the CSA is working on it! Dear Bird Talk, We have a rental property in Arizona and file a U.S. tax return each year. In Canada, we have registered (TFSA & RRSP) and non-registered investments in securities, which include U.S.-based companies. We pay withholding tax on our dividends earned. Do we need to add this income and tax paid to our U.S. tax filing? I am concerned about doing so, because we declare our U.S. income on our Canadian tax filing, so then we will be paying Canadian tax on RRSP income and then paying tax on it again when it is withdrawn from the RRSP. On the other hand, I don’t want to improperly file our U.S. returns and risk, in a worst-case scenario, being denied entry to the U.S. Jeffrey Maw Parkland County, AB Ed.: If the registered and non-registered accounts are held in Canadian financial institutions, then the proceeds from dividends earned or the gains realized from the sale of the investments do not need to be reported to the IRS. 6 | www.snowbirds.org
Bird Talk Featuring the letters & concerns of our members SEND YOUR LETTERS TO Bird Talk, c/o CSANews 180 Lesmill Road Toronto, Ontario M3B 2T5 Online at www.snowbirds.org/bird-talk or by e-mail: csawriteus@snowbirds.org Bird Talk closer connection exception. I will be filing an 8840 for 2024, but we did not file in previous years. Will this be an issue? Ron Tardiff Lorette, MB Ed.: There is no issue with filing the 8840 for the first time. We recommend keeping a copy of the form for your own files. Either a digital copy or a paper copy will suffice. Dear Bird Talk, My husband and I recently sold our condo in Florida. We know that we have to file a capital gains return with the IRS in 2025. How do we go about doing this? We know that we need to get an SSN and that we need to complete the relevant tax forms. We have all the pertinent information in order to complete the filing process, i.e. buying and selling info, receipts, etc., but don’t know where to begin. Please help. Angie Robertson Campbellford, ON Ed.: To ensure that you complete this process correctly, it would be best for you to consult a real estate lawyer licensed in the State of Florida. Call the CSA office for an initial, complimentary legal consultation. Dear Bird Talk, Can I transport my friend’s hunting rifle from North Carolina to New York? I have no gun licences or permits. Ronald Bissonnette Ontario Ed.: No! You are not a citizen of the United States; you do not “have the right to bear arms” or to do your friend a favour by doing so. Illegal possession of a firearm in New York state without aggravating circumstances is a Class E felony, which can be punishable by jail time and will likely lead to you being banned from entering the United States in the future. Dear Bird Talk, Is there any disaster relief for Canadians who own property and pay taxes in the United States? FEMA is for U.S. citizens only, I believe... Teri Davidson Lynden, ON Ed.: This is an unfortunate reality. FEMA support is only available to U.S. citizens. There are non-citizen qualifications; however, being a property owner is not one of them. Best of luck with your recovery. Dear Bird Talk, My spouse is retired and was a lineman for a New Brunswick company for hurricanes or tropical storms. He went to work in the United States for Hurricane Helene and is currently in Florida for Hurricane Milton. We are also snowbirds and spend the winter in Florida. My question is, do the days my spouse works for hurricanes count towards his 183 days? Louise Beauchemin St-Côme, QC Ed.: The technical answer would be yes, the days count. Whether you are admitted to the United States with a B1 – Temporary Business Visitor or a B2 Visa for Tourism or Medical Care, it doesn’t change the count. However, this would be an appropriate discussion to have with the Customs and Border Protection Officer upon entry to the United States. It would be at his/her discretion to permit you and your husband to stay in the United States for any particular amount of time. Dear Bird Talk, We have owned a condo in the U.S. for a number of years and typically never spend longer than three to four months in a year in the U.S. I’ve just become aware of the form 8840 and, in 2024, we will have spent 157 days in the U.S. I do not meet the Substantial Presence test and would qualify under the CSANews | WINTER 2024 | 7
Snowbird Alert source: Newscanada.com Three things that can affect vision as you age We often think of vision loss as a byproduct of aging, but that thinking can cause us to miss a host of serious conditions. That’s why it’s important to understand vision loss not as an inevitable part of getting older, but as a possible sign of one of several specific health issues. Here are some examples: 1. Dry eyes. Did you know that many of us produce fewer tears as we age? It’s not just an issue for enjoying a good cry – tears help keep our eyes from drying out. But as tear production falls off, our eyes can become red, dry and painful. Dry eyes can affect nighttime driving, as well as reading. Fortunately, there are treatment options available, from moisturizing eye drops to vitamin supplements and special tear duct plugs. If you find yourself blinking painfully often, or that your tears don’t seem to help when they do come, reach out to your eye-care provider. 2. Glaucoma. This includes several conditions that all damage the optic nerve – the pathway between your eyes and brain – causing gradual vision loss over years. It’s sometimes called “the silent thief” because it progresses so slowly that sufferers often don’t notice their vision loss until it has progressed significantly. Many glaucoma patients are seniors, and this is one of the leading causes of vision loss in people older than 60. The key to detecting it is regular eye exams that include a measurement of pressure in the eyeball. The condition is manageable, but requires lifelong monitoring and treatment. 3. Geographic atrophy (GA). A type of advanced dry macular degeneration, GA affects an estimated five million people worldwide. It’s a condition most often seen in seniors where the macula (the central part of the retina) starts to die off cell by cell. Vision loss begins in the middle of a person’s field of vision, and progresses to make everyday tasks, and even recognizing faces, difficult. GA causes irreversible damage and loss of independence, but it is detectable. Talk to your eye-care professional about getting checked regularly, as well as any factors that might put you at higher risk. Seven lifehacks to ward off online scammers As convenient as the digital world is, when we do our banking, shopping and other activities online, we open ourselves up to the risk of crooks trying to steal our information or money. Here are seven ways you can protect yourself online. 1. Set up your devices so that they require a password or a biometric tool such as your fingerprint or face to open them. 2. Create unique passwords or passphrases for every account. That way, your other accounts won’t be at risk if one is hacked. Each password should be at least 12 characters long with a combination of uppercase and lowercase letters, numbers and symbols. A passphrase is a minimum of 15 characters with a mix of four or more words strung together that is easy for you to remember, but hard for someone else to guess. 3. Enable multifactor authentication (MFA) whenever possible. This added layer of security ensures that it’s really you trying to log on. 4. Clear your browser’s cache and history before and after you log onto a secure site, such as your bank or a retailer’s site, where you’ve entered personal or banking information. 5. Install all software updates and patches as soon as they’re available. Note that some updates can take a significant amount of time to install, so you can set them up to initiate late at night or early in the morning when you’re less likely to need access to the device. Enable automatic updates wherever available. 6. When logging onto secure websites, make sure that the URL is accurately spelled out, has HTTPS at the beginning (the S stands for secure) and has a locked padlock symbol beside it. 7. Regularly review your banking and credit card statements for unusual charges. If you do see something suspicious, contact your bank immediately. Find more cyber safety tips at getcybersafe.ca. Learn more at livingwithga.ca. 8 | www.snowbirds.org
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President’s Message Garry McDonald CSA President Iwas pleased to be able to meet many of you during our most recent round of fall Snowbird Lifestyle Presentations. This year, we held our meetings in Ontario and began our tour with stops in Parry Sound and Owen Sound. From there, we headed to Port Hope, Nepean, Belleville and Markham. We concluded this year’s round of shows with stops in Chatham-Kent and St. Catharines. I am happy to report that we signed up many new members and I would like to thank all of the volunteers who came out to help us bring you these productions. If you did not have an opportunity to visit with us in the fall, we have a full round of Snowbird Extravaganzas and Winter Information Meetings planned for you over the next few months. This travel season, we will begin our winter shows with the Arizona Snowbird Extravaganza at the Mesa Convention Center in Mesa, Arizona on Tuesday, January 14, 2025. Our Florida Snowbird Extravaganza will be held at the RP Funding Center in Lakeland, Florida on Tuesday and Wednesday, January 28 and 29, 2025. Finally, our Winter Texans’ Snowbird Extravaganza will take place on Wednesday, February 26, 2025 at the McAllen Convention Center in McAllen, Texas. These Extravaganzas are always excellent opportunities to visit with old friends while making new ones. World-class entertainment for your enjoyment and access to all of the latest snowbird information and products to help you make the most of your time in the sun will be available. As always, admission to these shows is free of charge. If you are unable to attend one of our Extravaganzas, please consider joining us for one of our Winter Information Meetings. Although somewhat smaller in scale, these meetings still include wonderful entertainment. They also present members and prospective members with a great opportunity to hear first-hand what initiatives the Canadian Snowbird Association is currently undertaking on your behalf. They provide ample opportunity to question members of the board of directors about any ongoing snowbird-related concerns that you may have. They also make it a little easier to interact with the entertainers. This winter travel season, our Winter Information Meeting tour will begin in Florida with our first show on Tuesday, February 11, 2025 in Largo. We will be in Bradenton on Wednesday, February 12 and Fort Myers on Thursday, February 13. We will conclude our round of Florida shows in Punta Gorda on Friday, February 14. We will then head to California with shows in Indio on Monday, February 17 and Winterhaven on Wednesday, February 19. Once again, admission is free. Please look elsewhere in this issue of the magazine for specific venue locations and times. CSA members may also book a member of your board of directors to make an information presentation directly to their local winter community or club. These presentations provide updates regarding all of the latest initiatives on which the association has been working on your behalf, and we attempt to answer any questions that you may have about a wide variety of snowbird-related topics. To book a presentation, please contact the CSA office in Toronto. Since the fall issue of CSANews, we have concluded three provincial election campaigns in Canada. In British Columbia, the NDP won a third term by the slimmest of margins. David Eby will remain premier after being sworn into office in 2022 after the retirement of Premier John Horgan. The Conservatives will serve as the official opposition as a result of their best electoral performance in 72 years. On October 21, 2024, the residents of New Brunswick elected a Liberal majority government. The Liberals captured 31 seats, the Progressive Conservatives 16 and the Green party were elected in two ridings. With the win, Premier Susan Holt becomes the first woman to serve as New Brunswick’s premier. Finally, on October 28, Saskatchewan voters re-elected the incumbent Saskatchewan Party government to it’s fifth consecutive majority with Premier Scott Moe earning his second mandate as premier. The Saskatchewan NDP will form the official opposition. Congratulations to Premiers Eby, Holt and Moe and to all members of the provincial legislatures. We look forward to working with all of you on issues of importance to travelling Canadians. It has been a difficult summer and fall for many of our Florida members following the impact of hurricanes Milton and Helene. If members have any ongoing concerns with respect to the impact which these hurricanes may have had on their properties, please do not hesitate to contact our office in Toronto. They are always there with the latest available information to assist you. Have a safe and enjoyable winter with your family and friends. 10 | www.snowbirds.org
Government Relations Report Johanne Blain First Vice-President On Tuesday, November 5, 2024 the United States Presidential election was held. While at the time of printing some jurisdictions continue to count votes, Republican nominee Donald Trump has been declared the winner. The Republicans have also maintained their control of the United States House of Representatives and they have won control of the United States Senate, gaining four seats. CSA members have inquired about how the election results will impact our advocacy efforts to pass a Canadian Retiree Visa in the United States Congress. This is our legislative proposal to increase the amount of time that retired Canadians, aged 50 and older, can spend in the United States from the current limit of six months to an eight-month period. To begin, it is easier for legislation to be passed when a single party has a majority in both the U.S. House of Representatives and the U.S. Senate. That being said, two of the association’s long-time champions of a Canadian Retiree Visa – New York Congresswoman Elise Stefanik and Florida Senator Marco Rubio – have been nominated for Cabinetlevel positions in the upcoming Trump administration, Ambassador to the United Nations and Secretary of State, respectively. We would like to take this opportunity to congratulate both Congresswoman Stefanik and Senator Rubio on their nominations and thank them for their tireless efforts in supporting our Canadian Retiree Visa initiative. When the new session of Congress commences in January 2025, CSA representatives will begin searching for new potential sponsors of our Canadian Retiree Visa legislation. Once bills are re-introduced in both the U.S. House of Representatives and the U.S. Senate, CSA representatives will continue building support for these bills by seeking out bipartisan co-sponsors. Further updates on our advocacy work will be sent to members via email through our electronic member advisories. Beginning on January 8, 2025, Canadian travellers visiting or transiting through the United Kingdom will need to apply for an Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) prior to their trip. Canadian travellers will be able to apply for an ETA starting on November 27, 2024. The United Kingdom Electronic Travel Authorization (ETA) is an advance travel permission required for foreign nationals who intend to visit or transit through the United Kingdom without a visa. An ETA will be required for anyone planning to visit the U.K. visa-free but will not be required for British or Irish passport holders. The ETA will be linked to the traveller’s passport and will cost 10 British pounds. It will permit multiple trips to the U.K. for stays of up to six months at a time over two years, or until the holder’s passport expires, whichever is sooner. If you get a new passport, you will need to apply for a new ETA. Once you apply, you will receive an email confirming that you have an ETA. The decision generally takes three business days. Travellers will still need to see a Border Force officer to enter the U.K. and an ETA does not guarantee entry. More information about the UK Electronic Travel Authorization, including a link to apply, can be found here, www.gov.uk/ guidance/apply-for-an-electronic-travelauthorisation-eta. Canadian travellers should also be aware of upcoming changes to travel requirements for entry into 30 European nations starting next year. Beginning in 2025, Canadian citizens travelling to certain European countries will be required to obtain a permit known as a European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) travel authorization. An ETIAS travel authorization is an entry requirement for visa-exempt nationals travelling to 30 European countries including France, Spain, Greece, Italy, Croatia, Finland, Germany and Portugal. A full list of all 30 countries can be accessed at travel-europe.europa.eu/etias/ who-should-apply_en#ETIAS-countries. The ETIAS travel authorization is linked to a traveller’s passport and is valid for a threeyear period or until the passport expires, whichever comes first. With a valid ETIAS travel authorization, you can enter the territory of these 30 European countries as often as you want for short-term stays – normally for up to 90 days in any 180-day period. Applying for the ETIAS travel authorization will cost seven Euros. More information about what to expect when crossing EU borders is available at travel-europe.europa.eu/ees_en. Currently, the ETIAS is not in operation and no applications are being collected at this point. The Canadian Snowbird Association will be providing members with updates about this new requirement as soon as more information becomes available. Gilles and I wish you a safe and happy winter. CSANews | WINTER 2024 | 11
Hurricane Hell J. Ross Quigley CEO Medipac International Inc. Insurance The only words that come to mind are the famous Marlon Brando lines from the movie Apocalypse Now – “The Horror, the Horror.” My wife and I have been blessed, as snowbirds, for 30 plus years. No storms, no hurricanes, no fires and no crime. We always seemed to escape the brutal world out there. Oh, a shingle would blow off now and again, and a little water would get into the basement, but nothing that we could not easily fix and handle ourselves. Then we had a visit from Helene, soon to be followed by Milton. Two desperate, back-toback hurricanes in September and October of this year. Milton was the strongest cyclone worldwide in 2024; it hit Tampa Bay head on and centred on Siesta Key. Perhaps you have seen footage of the area on TV – things look a little different now. Our place is on Manasota Key, part of the old Florida with overhanging trees and lush vegetation, almost a jungle. No more! Every flower (several wild orchids), every palm tree, our beach decks, our stairs to the main house, our pool equipment, several heat pumps, a generator and a wine cooler containing my favourite wines all just disappeared. Where are they?? Oh, and all the walls on the main floor are gone, too. My guess is that they were all washed out to the inland waterway about a mile away. I thought that we were safe from erosion and water. After 15 years of fighting with Sarasota County we, and several neighbours, were able to build a seven-foot seawall on the beach. It was gorgeous and did its job beautifully up to seven feet. Unfortunately, they say that the storm surge from Helene and then Milton was 18 feet “above” the seawall. We had several storm panels installed on the main floor which were to allow water in, and then out, in a storm surge. However, they were not much good when the entire concrete walls in which they were installed on the main floor “disappeared.” After speaking with several contractors, they all felt that we could salvage our snowbird home and that is the only good news in this disaster. They said that 68 inches of our topsoil and sand had been eroded by the storm surge. This undermined the house; the 12-inch concrete main floor collapsed and everything fell into the pit. And then it was all washed away by Milton. I also had two cars there – one for me and one for my wife – and they were destroyed, but they’re still there… buried in the rubble after Helene. Milton, the second storm, somehow resurrected my station wagon from the pit and installed it on the top of my little sports car. I am an insurance guy, so I had lots of insurance. I just bought the best policies they had with generous limits and very expensive premiums. A full homeowner’s policy, extra flood policies and great car insurance for the vehicles we left there for the summer. I almost felt sorry for the insurance companies. Almost. We have had four different adjusters reviewing our potential claims. Hagerty and Chubb were fantastic. They gave us cheques for the cars even before the cars were towed out of the 68-inchdeep pit. I would highly recommend them for car insurance. The flood insurance adjusters just said, “not covered.” Apparently, flood insurance does not cover anything on the main floor. What? Well, they did end up covering our four heat pumps but said that these would be subject to depreciation. I have a little surprise for them as they were brand-new and just installed. All of the furniture, tools, shelves, contents and concrete walls were denied, including all of the interior doors, floors and walls. The home insurance people just said – guess what? – “not covered.” This was a flood and we do not cover damages from a flood. Wait now, I thought we had great insurance coverage, especially for hurricanes. Apparently not. The damage to our next floor was extensive and was not flood related so a battle may be in the offing. Several of our storm shutters were ripped off of the house and our second-floor lanai was destroyed. And we are not covered? They said those familiar words: “Read and Understand Your Policy.” Familiar words, indeed. Pat, my wife, simply says, “Stop whining and get on with it!” She ends up doing most of the work with the dozens of contractors and handles more than a dozen calls a day. Thank you! It will be many, many months before we can live there again, so our snowbirding days this year will be limited. But there are thousands of snowbirds in far worse situations than ours and our hearts go out to them. Our friends and neighbours in the South need our help more than ever. Please do what you can to help them through these challenging times and support the small businesses that are still struggling to survive. 12 | www.snowbirds.org
Opinion with Michael Coren The children’s author Roald Dahl said, “An autobiography is a book a person writes about his own life and it is usually full of all sorts of boring details.” Odd, really, in that my autobiography was published this week and one of the “details” is all about Mr. Dahl. I interviewed him back in 1983 and he spewed out the most hideous antisemitism. That exchange is part of a major play currently running in London, England and starring John Lithgow. My memoir ends five years ago when I was ordained as an Anglican priest, so what it feels like to be portrayed on stage will have to wait for volume two. Dahl was as horribly wrong about autobiographies as he was about religious tolerance and basic decency. Memoirs can, of course, be dull and dry, but I’ve tried to be candid and honest, especially about my failings. And, as they say, I’ve had a few. I’m simply too old to worry about what people think. It’s not an easy task to sit at a desk and recall the past, with all of its open wounds, selfish whims, poor behaviour and sheer foolishness. There have been triumphs too, acts of generosity and kindness and, I hope – especially over the last 10 years – a determined and sincere effort to be a witness to a greater good. But unless we’re enormously smug, it’s what we got wrong that becomes so vivid when we consciously recollect. I’d start the day early, and I’d find myself asking again and again why I didn’t do better in so many instances. Perhaps it was a cleansing exercise, perhaps it was all for the good, but I can’t pretend that it was fun. Then there were the people whom I worked with who are no longer alive, which is a very sobering thought indeed. Screenwriter Colin Welland (who won an Oscar for Chariots of Fire) was a mentor to me, and I was his researcher for several years. John Pilger, with whom I wrote my first book and who was one of the most influential journalists of his era. Jessica Mitford, Martha Gellhorn, Martin Amis, Christopher Hitchens. Some of them lived long lives, but not all. Incalculable talent taken far too soon. I wrote of my childhood, my parents, my utter failure to understand my father until I became one myself. My struggle with identity. A working-class boy suddenly operating in a radically different world and with people my dad the taxi driver would only have seen on television or when they got into the back of his cab. My religious identity. Three Jewish grandparents but not considered fully Jewish, who became a Roman Catholic in 1984, an Anglican a decade ago, and who is now a priest. That faith journey forms a central theme of the book. I don’t regard this as an especially religious book, however, so don’t be too alarmed! I came to Canada in 1987 after meeting a wonderful young woman at an academic conference in Toronto the year before. She’d enjoyed my lecture, told me – I think she was nervous – that I was “amazing” and, thinking that this would never happen again, I married her. I was right, it hasn’t happened again. I was also right in marrying her and, 37 years later, I thank God for that chance meeting. Then came television and radio shows, controversy, columns, books, lectures and speeches, allying myself with the conservative right and causing harm and pain that I’ve spent the last decade working to put right. Some of what has been said about me is propaganda, but enough is true. It’s not enough to say sorry. There must be contrition, penance and genuine effort to embrace and repair any damage done. Remorseful words are simply too easy. A few years ago, I asked the author and actor Stephen Fry whether I should write the book, knowing what a challenge it would be. Perhaps the wisest person I know, he said that if I didn’t do so, I’d spend the rest of my life wondering why, and before long it would be too late. I think that he was right. As soon as I finished writing it, there were things that I wish I’d said or not said but, in the end, the constant editing, worrying and self-analysis has to stop. It is what it is, I am what I am, and that will have to do, whether you like it or not. Heaping Coals: From Media Firebrand to Anglican Priest is published by Dundurn Press. CSANews | WINTER 2024 | 13
Story and photos © Barb & Ron Kroll In what country will you find bucolic scenery, colourful markets, ancient Roman cities adorned with mosaics and a well-preserved amphitheatre that rivals Rome’s Colosseum? No, the answer isn’t Italy. It’s Tunisia, a North African country that’s 600 kilometres south of Rome by air. For additional enticement, add delicious cuisine, photogenic blue-and-white villages, a drivethrough lakebed filled with glittering salt and mirages, date palm-studded oases and deserts inhabited by nomads and their camels. Such diversity is rare in a country that’s slightly smaller than Florida. The key to its discovery lies in knowing where to go and what to see. Tantalizing Tunisia Discover ancient treasures, desert oases and Star Wars film locations 14 | www.snowbirds.org Travel
Alluring markets & tasty cuisine The best place to begin is in Tunis, the capital city. Head straight for the medina – the medieval quarter, where time’s relentless script has spared the souks (markets) from a vanishing way of life. Jammed together in covered passageways and a labyrinth of small streets, the souks offer an incredible collage of people and merchandise, a kaleidoscope of colour, a cacophony of sounds, a mélange of pungent scents and an endless parade of images from another century. The souks are grouped according to commodity, be it cloth, carpets, slippers or silver. Wander through the dim corridors, haggle for glimmering brass and copper souvenirs and pay a few pennies for a dab of jasmine perfume from a glass-stoppered bottle. You will find that the price of an object is fixed not by its actual value, but by how much you want it. Although primarily French and Arabic are spoken in Tunisia, most vendors can help you in English, or Swahili for that matter! They will probably also invite you into their shops for sweet mint tea and conversation – whether you buy their wares or not. Tunis is also a good place to sample local food specialties. Try couscous, the national dish of steamed semolina topped with a spicy stew of lamb and vegetables. Brik – a crisp, flaky pastry stuffed with tuna and egg – is a popular appetizer. For dessert, enjoy kab el ghazal (gazelle horns) – horn-shaped pastries stuffed with ground almonds and sesame seeds and soaked in syrup. Fascinating day trips Much of Tunisia’s fascination, however, lies beyond Tunis. You can take a day trip to El Haouaria where, in ancient times, more than 3,500 slaves quarried rock to build Carthage. One of the greatest cities in the ancient world, it had a population of 500,000 at its peak. Little remains of Carthage today because stones from its buildings were used to build Tunis, as well as Italian, Spanish and Turkish cities. It’s worth a visit, though, to watch archaeologists reconstructing the ruins and to see the Roman theatre which was one of the Tunisian film locations for the Monty Python movie, Life of Brian. Other day trips can be made to Kelibia – a picturesque fishing village dominated by a 16th-century citadel, to Nabeul – a city of ceramics craftsmen and to Hammamet – a beach resort. Even more appealing is the dazzling white village of Sidi Bou Saïd, with its arched blue doorways and wrought-iron window grilles. Climb the cobbled streets to viewpoints overlooking elegant villas and the Bay of Tunis. The panorama is more Mediterranean than African. CSANews | WINTER 2024 | 15 Travel
World’s richest concentration of ancient Roman cities Dougga – a UNESCO World Heritage Site – is also a day trip from Tunis. Its Roman theatre, built in AD 168, is now used as a spectacular setting for concerts. Its Baths of Cyclops are in ruins, except for the 1,700-year-old communal latrines. In a horseshoe-shaped stone bench, there are 12 side-by-side holes. A waste channel leads to the street gutter. Wildflowers grow in the washbasin. You must leave your base in Tunis to explore the Roman cities that flourished during the reign of the Caesars. Thuburbo Majus, with its splendid monuments, houses and mosaics was founded by Augustus Caesar in 27 BC. In Bulla Regia, wealthy Roman landowners built heat-sheltered subterranean villas, decorated with mosaics. You can still admire several magnificent mosaics here, including a portrait of a woman in the Palace of Amphitrite. Legend claims that there were originally gemstones in her irises, but they were stolen. Also not to be missed is the three-tiered Amphitheatre of El Jem – the third largest in the world. Better preserved than Rome’s Colosseum, it once seated 35,000 spectators for gladiatorial combats, wild animal fights and the martyrdom of Christians. The UNESCO World Heritage Site was one of the film locations used in the Oscar-winning movie, Gladiator. 16 | www.snowbirds.org Travel
Memories of Indiana Jones A scene in another movie, Raiders of the Lost Ark, depicted a truck speeding through a shop-lined street, overturning fruit stands and piles of wicker baskets. People and chickens scattered in all directions until the vehicle rolled over in a burst of flames. The setting, minus the truck, is essentially the same today. It’s one of the streets in Kairouan, Tunisia’s sacred Islamic city. After Mecca, Kairouan is the holiest place that any North African may go on a pilgrimage. Nearly 1,400 years old, the Great Mosque is open to the public, but visitors must dress conservatively, speak quietly and refrain from smoking. Although non-Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall, they can stroll through the courtyard and peek through one of the wooden doorways to glimpse the 414 columns supporting 17 aisles of arches. The 35-metrehigh minaret is the oldest in the world. At sunrise and sunset, the call to prayer echoes throughout the city. You can take a day trip from Kairouan to Sousse to visit its Great Mosque. On Friday afternoons, the souks close and the town becomes deserted while everyone goes to the mosque to listen to the great imam (teacher). Monastir is southeast of Sousse on the Mediterranean coast. Sunbathers on Sidi Mansour Beach can view the Ribat – an eighth-century fortified monastery built to protect Kairouan from attacks from the sea. Sbeitla – the site of three spectacular temples in the Roman ruins of Sufetula – is also near Kairouan. Its buff-coloured stone walls blush pale orange as the sun melts into the horizon. For the best sunset and sunrise views, spend the night at the hotel which overlooks the archaeological site. Before leaving Kairouan, try lagmi or palm wine, sold from pottery vessels. Made from the sap of palm trees cut early in the morning, it must be consumed within 24 hours before it ferments. CSANews | WINTER 2024 | 17 Travel
Sand dunes, date palms & oasis villages No visit to Tunisia is complete without venturing into the Sahara. Near Tozeur, vegetation becomes sparse and roaming camels cross the road in front of you. While exploring the small town, you’ll encounter its friendly residents. Don’t be surprised if curious children approach you with smiles and questions about your cameras and your country of origin. From Tozeur, a narrow road snakes its tortuous way up a rocky red canyon to the mud-brick village of Chebika. If the scenery looks familiar, it’s probably because you’ve seen it before in the movie, Star Wars. Barely distinguishable from the tawny rock surrounding it, the buildings of Chebika cling to the mountainside. A short drive further, followed by a hike through the imposing gorges of a wadi – a dried-out riverbed that catches the runoff from flash floods – you’ll find the abandoned 18th-century Berber village of Tamerza. Desert winds whisper through its time-gnawed walls. The most spectacular oasis in Tunisia is in Nefta, a village of beige dwellings overlooking nearly half a million date palms, pomegranate, almond and apricot trees. Time stands still here. You can still see farmers using donkeys to transport hay and circles of men sitting in the sand, playing games with black-and-white stones. Salt lakes & camel treks Tour operators in Douz, another oasis village, offer Land Rover tours of other desert villages and the 100-kilometre-long Chott El-Jerid (Salt Lake of the Palms). The English Patient’s base camp scenes were filmed by the lake. Glittering salt crackles under the vehicle’s tires. Hot air distorts the landscape, giving the illusion of lakes and palm groves that recede as you approach. Over the centuries, similar mirages have led many caravans astray. Most hotels also offer village tours, as well as guided camel treks into the desert. To see the desert as it was meant to be seen, you must travel by camel. Select a late-afternoon excursion, when the sun stretches the shadows of palms across the desert and gilds the sand in molten light. Traversing the desert is like watching a movie in slow motion – a biblical epic where the characters and countryside seem straight out of another era – Bedouin shepherds watering their sheep at artesian wells and Berber farmers riding their donkeys across a monotone sandscape. If you are unable to join a camel excursion, take a side trip to Sabria – southwest of Douz – to see its enormous dunes, rippled by the wind. Climb to the top of one of the dunes and listen to the desert winds. This is the Sahara – vast and overwhelming. 18 | www.snowbirds.org Travel
Berbers & Bedouins Equally overwhelming is the annual December International Festival of the Sahara (also called the Douz Festival). For four days, camel competitions, traditional music and dancing celebrate the cultures of Berbers – an indigenous ethnic group of mostly settled farmers and Bedouins – nomadic and semi-nomadic herders. Like swirling desert winds, Berber dancers whirl to haunting tunes played on traditional pipes and drums. Festival participants feast on lamb roasted on spits and on countless bowls of couscous. If your trip doesn’t coincide with the Douz Festival, visit the weekly Thursday market in Douz. Semi-nomadic shepherds bring their sheep to the marketplace to sell or barter for food, clothing and supplies. The most fascinating desert village is Matmata. Hidden in the craters of a lunar-like landscape, subterranean dwellings still house several families. Years ago, Arab invasions drove the Berbers underground. Today, the cool, dark interiors keep them there, even though there is a nearby modern village. Dug-out rooms for living, storage and animal shelters surround each courtyard. If you peer into the open courtyards eight metres below ground level, you’ll likely see children playing, chickens scratching for insects and women hanging clothing to dry. Tunisia was a major filming location for the Star Wars series. The interior of Hotel Sidi Driss in Matmata played the role of Luke Skywalker’s childhood home on the planet of Tatooine. Some of the set decorations remain today. Diehard fans can dine in the hotel’s restaurant in one of the rooms used as a film set. Don’t leave the Tunisian Sahara without visiting Chenini. Where does the village begin and the mountain end? It’s difficult to say, for more than 500 Berber shepherds and farmers live in grottoes tunneled into the top of this craggy peak. Sand-coloured brick walls hide the entrances to homes, schools and stores. A narrow, winding path leads to a mosque at the top of the village. Even with your eyes wide open, you can see the Tunisia of 900 years ago in Chenini. Time dissolves as veiled women lead donkeys to branch-roofed stables and camels carry pottery jugs in handwoven saddlebags. This entire trip can be done in as little as two weeks or stretched to many more. Either way, Tunisia is not so much a place on a map, as it is an experience – one that will give you memories to last a lifetime. Resources For more information, visit the Tunisian National Tourist Office at www.discovertunisia.com/en/ In May 2025, the University of British Columbia (UBC) will run a Tunisia tour that will be guided by Canadian archaeologist and UBC professor Megan Daniels. For an itinerary, email travel@worldwidequest.com or call 1-800-387-1483. Barb & Ron Kroll publish the trip-planning website www.KrollTravel.com CSANews | WINTER 2024 | 19 Travel
Canadians Dominate the Ranks of Florida’s International Arrivals In mid-August, Governor Ron DeSantis announced that Florida had logged a record-breaking 34.2 million visitors in the second quarter of 2024 (April, May, June) – an all-time high for second-quarter visitation in the state’s history – and he attributed a large share of that ranking to two million international visitors, especially singling out the 739,000 Canadian visits during that three-month period alone. Taking a closer look at the broader impact of international tourism to Florida, Canada’s contribution stands out dramatically, with 3.23 million visits accounting for 28 per cent of all foreign visitors to Florida from around the globe in 2023. Next in line was the U.K. with 9%, Brazil with 8.8% and on down the list to Colombia, Mexico, Argentina, Germany, etc. In fact, in Q2, 2024, Canada accounted for a larger percentage of foreign visitors to Florida than the next four nations combined – U.K., Brazil, Colombia and Mexico. “These impressive numbers,” said DeSantis, “reflect the success of our efforts to prioritize public safety, freedom and common-sense leadership. These priorities make the Free State of Florida a most appealing place to visit.” With consumer confidence apparently reinvigorating over recent months, the Conference Board of Canada notes that Canadians are once again believing that now is a good time to make a major purchase, and Bank of Canada interest cuts have also proven helpful to encouraging travel aspirations. CBOC also notes that in the first half of 2024, Canadians took slightly more trips to U.S. than in 2018, and only slightly fewer than in 2019. Florida Portrayed as Safe Harbour Without getting into political discourse, which is pretty hard to do in chaotic election cycles, Governor DeSantis’ emphasis on “safety, freedom and common sense” has reverberated well in the years coming out of the Covid upheavals – during which Florida kept its schools and workplaces mostly open and economically viable. It has also appealed to residents of other states who have picked up their valuables and migrated to Florida, making it the fastest-growing state two years in a row (U.S. Census 2020) and now the third most-populous in the nation after California and Texas (replacing New York which, like high-tax California, has been draining population). Travel by Milan Korcok 20 | www.snowbirds.org
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