Memories of Indiana Jones A scene in another movie, Raiders of the Lost Ark, depicted a truck speeding through a shop-lined street, overturning fruit stands and piles of wicker baskets. People and chickens scattered in all directions until the vehicle rolled over in a burst of flames. The setting, minus the truck, is essentially the same today. It’s one of the streets in Kairouan, Tunisia’s sacred Islamic city. After Mecca, Kairouan is the holiest place that any North African may go on a pilgrimage. Nearly 1,400 years old, the Great Mosque is open to the public, but visitors must dress conservatively, speak quietly and refrain from smoking. Although non-Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall, they can stroll through the courtyard and peek through one of the wooden doorways to glimpse the 414 columns supporting 17 aisles of arches. The 35-metrehigh minaret is the oldest in the world. At sunrise and sunset, the call to prayer echoes throughout the city. You can take a day trip from Kairouan to Sousse to visit its Great Mosque. On Friday afternoons, the souks close and the town becomes deserted while everyone goes to the mosque to listen to the great imam (teacher). Monastir is southeast of Sousse on the Mediterranean coast. Sunbathers on Sidi Mansour Beach can view the Ribat – an eighth-century fortified monastery built to protect Kairouan from attacks from the sea. Sbeitla – the site of three spectacular temples in the Roman ruins of Sufetula – is also near Kairouan. Its buff-coloured stone walls blush pale orange as the sun melts into the horizon. For the best sunset and sunrise views, spend the night at the hotel which overlooks the archaeological site. Before leaving Kairouan, try lagmi or palm wine, sold from pottery vessels. Made from the sap of palm trees cut early in the morning, it must be consumed within 24 hours before it ferments. CSANews | WINTER 2024 | 17 Travel
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